FAQ: Yanmar Engines

[Andy Moore]

Anyone know about engines and fancies writing up a FAQ on the Nic 31 engine?:confused:

[blueprintbill]

Hull no 113, came with and still has a 3 cylinder Yanmar (3GMF) 'F' standing for fresh water heat exchanger, ie no raw sea water in the block itself. This has been a great little 22.5 horsepower unit, very smooth running after thousands of hours. Have serviced it regularly with only one new heat exchanger replaced after its 19th season. Also now on its second clutch,and keeping my fingers crossed.
'Plural' above because I know that some (many?) boats came with 2 clyinder engines, (all Yanmar?). Photos to follow if Andy can put them up. (?) Thanks.

[Andy Moore]

Photos to follow if Andy can put them up. (?) Thanks.
1) Overall engine installation photo.
2) 110 volt battery charger unit - yellow green cyninder in background is the Cleghorn Waring domestic water heat exchanger, plumbed from the engine. Original was replaced 2 seasons ago.
3) White alternator unit is an upgraded 75/85 amp unit from original +/- 30 amp (?)
4) Racor diesel fuel filter mounted on face of fuel tank.

[Andy Moore]

5) Secondary fuel filter (on left) serving the Epersbacher (Espar in the US) hot air boat heating unit
6) 'Smart' electrical regulator (black cover) next to Perko raw water intake filter.
7) Bronze raw water intake seacock (open). Raw water supply hose wrapped with clear plastic chaff protection where it crosses engine motor mount.
8) Fresh water heat exchanger (see radiator cap).

[Andy Moore]

I hope I got the pics/captions in the right order!:eek:

[aahcruising]

Hull #05 has a Yanmar 2QM20. When I first bought Showa, I had the engine thoroughly checked and serviced. Certain parts needed to be replaced but there seemed to be a problem finding them. That is, until the parts man realized the engine was not the usual design. It was not the prototpe, but what he called the 'previous type' before they settled on the final design. It is unusual in that it has an oil line and a fuel line are different as well as having extra zincs. He said it wasn't supposed to be exported out of Japan but obviously some were. Whatever its history, it has been a thoroughly reliable engine which has needed little work. I've changed the gaskets for the waterjackets, the zincs, the various filters and, of course the oil regularly. Annette

[blueprintbill]

Andy, Photos and captions are spot on correct. Thanks , Bill.

[aahcruising]

I have the original prop and would like to change it to a different type. One that would keep my Nicholson 31 from sinking in the stern when traveling over hull speed. Now the water comes in the scuppers up into the cockpit and I end up standing in a few inches of water. Has anyone changed their prop and found a solution? Thanks, Annette

[Andy Moore]

Has anyone changed their prop and found a solution? Thanks, Annette
We just pull the bits of elastic really tight. Seems to keep the water out. :D

[Andy Moore]

Hull #05 has a Yanmar 2QM20.
What is the horsepower of the 2QM20? 20hp?:confused:

[Andy Moore]

5) Secondary fuel filter (on left) serving the Epersbacher (Espar in the US) hot air boat heating unit

I like the sound of the Eberspacher. I remember going to the Southampton Boat Show year's ago with my later Father and he was looking at a unit then. How many vents(?) have you got? One in the saloon and one in the focasle?

[Andy Moore]

And they've got a promotion (http://www.eberspacher.com/promotion.php) on! :cool:

[blueprintbill]

Andy,
The unit is mounted high and as far out board as possible in the portside seat locker. The primary duct runs forward just beneath the galley cupbord/ cabinet, into the 'pots and pans' locker,where it splits; one trunk/duct to a diffuser under the sink cabinet just above the cabin sole, the other forward just under the pilot berth and into the heads hanging locker where it splits to a diffuser just below the toilet paper dispenser, the other forward to a diffuser high on the forcastle bulkhead. You can adjust the diffusers, up ,down, forward, aft, open,partially open, or completely closed. Lots of flexibility and very cozy. I will often turn on the unit, (at the thermostat, mounted on the outside of the bulkhead at the head of the pilot berth, near the galley) before going out for dinner/ drinks in the evening and come back to a very luxurious, snug, dry and warm boat. It's particularily nice on rainy, cold and miserable evenings. It's not an inexpensive piece of kit, but for cruising northern Europe or the cold waters of Maine it's invaluable. Fuel consumption is approx. a tenth of a gallon of diesel / hour when running hard. But you don't need to run hard all night as it will roast you out.
How's that for an answer to your question as to the number of outlets? Sorry. Cheers Bill.

[Andy Moore]

Excellent description, Bill. Thanks.

So all the hot air unit needs is a diesel feed and an electrical connection? And then its a matter of running the 'tubes' to where you want the warmth?

Can you have one in the cockpit?!;)

[blueprintbill]

Andy,
Only if you want to add to global warming.
Relative to installation you will have to provide a diesel exhaust loop, (up as high as possible into the underside of the cockpit coaming) before exiting relatively high on the transom) You can also include a noise abatement muffler ( walk around your marina on a cold day, listen, and make your own judgement as to the necessity). The unit is supposed to be wired directly to the battery bank. (? why?) and should also be installed with it's own fuel filter. Here in the US Espar conducts mechanics workshops especially for installation do's and don'ts. It does have it's complexities, apparently, but done right, it seems relatively problem free.

[Andy Moore]

Ok. Got all that, I think. Exiting the hull sounds a bit daunting to me though. :eek:

And now for my next topic....

[Wight Skipper]

Bill, it is so clean under your engine! Ours is a sea of oil!! Seems to keep running though!!!

[aahcruising]

I understood it to be 22 hp. But Tony Irwin said that he understood that the 22hp is the 1 hour rating and that the continuous running hp is 20hp. Annette

[David]

I have an Eberspacher D2 airtronic and fitted it myself takes about a day and a half. The downside is they are noisy both inside the boat and for your neighbours. On high setting the amp draw is also high havn't got the figures with me all paperwork is on the boat. apart from that I,m happy with my unit.I decided to only install one outlet which is in the main cabin this heats the whole boat, reasoning behind this is the shorter and straighter the ducting run the more heat gets into the cabin as opposed to getting lost in the ducting runs, although you will have nice warm lockers that way, in the spring and early Autumn this poses no problems but I like winter sailing.

David
S/V Bonita

[Andy Moore]

I have an Eberspacher D2 airtronic and fitted it myself takes about a day and a half. The downside is they are noisy both inside the boat and for your neighbours.

Does this run off the diesel? If not, I wonder if the diesel units are quieter?

[David]

Hi Andy,

Yes it is a diesel unit the smallest Eberspacher make. I contemplated installing a D4, not much more money than the D2 but 2 times the size.

David
S/V Bonita

[blueprintbill]

Andy, Re Bonitas comments, I don't recollect the model no. (I think they may have changed... mine had the number 3 in it) but I do remember that the size was one step up from the smallest. This was calculated carefully by the distributor and the yard where I had it installed. To run ducting forward to the v-berth will take a lot more than a day and a half for installation but it is well worth the effort. You can turn the thermostat way down overnight, close down the main saloon diffuser, and be snug as a bug forward, and conserve fuel at the same time. Flexibility is sooo nice... so are the dry clothes, and warm head seat, in the morning.
Re electrical draw, it's my understanding that the primary draw is in the initial firing up of the unit, but not in the continuous running mode. I've never noticed much of a drop in the batteries running overnight. Be sure to talk this thru with your local rep.
Re noise, most of the noise is that coming out the exhaust manifold (hence the muffler/no muffler question). With the companionway closed... it is probably cold out there ... noise is abated considerably. You can hardly hear the sound of the hot air delivery... in fact most of the time you have to feel for the passage of air to tell if the unit is on.
Bill.

[Tony Irwin]

Andy,
Only if you want to add to global warming.
Relative to installation you will have to provide a diesel exhaust loop, (up as high as possible into the underside of the cockpit coaming) before exiting relatively high on the transom) You can also include a noise abatement muffler ( walk around your marina on a cold day, listen, and make your own judgement as to the necessity). The unit is supposed to be wired directly to the battery bank. (? why?) and should also be installed with it's own fuel filter. Here in the US Espar conducts mechanics workshops especially for installation do's and don'ts. It does have it's complexities, apparently, but done right, it seems relatively problem free. The reason for joining directly to the battery bank is that the system has a safety shut down system built in; if you can turn it off at a switch on the panel, you can leave unvented heat/ fuel/ gas in the burner that can be dangerous.
Tony

[Andy Moore]

Have you got heating/hot water, Tony?

I guess Webasto (http://www.webasto.co.uk/am/en/am_marine_3364.html) would be another solution to look at.

[Tony Irwin]

Yes, I fitted a freshwater cooling system conversion as soon as I was sure that the engine was still basically sound. I flushed out the waterways, fitted the system and added in a hot water system to take advantage of the heatexchanger to provide 22 litres of hot water, plus an immersion heater when connected to shore power. I have hot [60 degrees or more] water within thirty minutes of starting the engine, flip lever mixer taps so I don't get scalded and a Nature Pure water filter. As I was able to fit it all myself, I am more than pleased with myself, and as it has continued to work for three years so far, I am becoming ever more pleased and conceited. None of the work is at all difficult, the most difficult being cutting neat holes for pipes, taps etc. Piping is all plastic with re-useable joints. As soon as it goes wrong, I will let you know what an idiot I am, but in the meantime, as everyone knows, 'any fool can be uncomfortable'. I highly recommend it, as the difference to comfort is immense. Cold wet days off Ardnamurchan and the Small Isles are transformed by dipping frozen hands in hot water, the engine is happier at the much higher temperature allowed by having fresh water, cooking, washing, cleaning, no need to boil a kettle, no cabin full of steam, how did we do without before the change?
Tony

[David]

Bill,

I think your model is the DL3 which has been replaced by the D4. I agree with you on the extra outlets that can be placed with the higher heating capacity of the D4 and the comfort this will provide.As I sail primarily singlehanded the forward cabin is not used ,I prefer to bed down in my sleeping bag in the rear quarter berth. The warm head seat sounds cosy but I run with dry heads.
The exterior noise level is quite high, any boat running their heating can be heard at least 5 boats away, the muffler that came with my kit was plastic and designed for the cold air inlet, this works well. the exhaust is aluminium flex tube covered with insulation with an outer ally flex tube covering, no muffler was included. I never run my unit when I'm sleeping, thermals and the sleeping bag keep me toasty.There is noise from the fan that moves the heated air, this is not high noise but it is noticable.
Tony, your hot water is making me envious.

David
S/V Bonita

[aahcruising]

You should try cruising in the tropics. Rarely does one need a heater. If one does, you take a clay flower pot, turn it upside down on a burner on your stove and turn it on. Heats the whole boat in a short time. (Smile) Annette

[Andy Moore]

You should try cruising in the tropics. Rarely does one need a heater. If one does, you take a clay flower pot, turn it upside down on a burner on your stove and turn it on. Heats the whole boat in a short time. (Smile) Annette
What a cool idea. :)

[Peter Foston]

Two years ago I gave up trying to fix my original drain stops.
I have made conical bungs which allow me to run hard under power for an hour or so before slowing for a moment to drain the water that has seeped in.
To make the bung buy a small plastic funnel (about 75mm Dia. at the wide end) and reduce the spout to about 10mm also buy a 6/8mm longshanked Stainless eyebolt, locknut and penny washer.
Put the eyebolt in a vice threaded end up and offer the funnel over it, wide end up. Fill the funnel with mastic WELL TAMPED DOWN and leave it to go off. This may take some weeks depending somewhat on the temperature. I brought mine into the kitchen which helped. Fix nut and washer.
Once cured carefully cut away the funnel and securely attach a lanyard (one of mine came undone and sank like a stone!
Pass the lanyard thru a bull's eye fixed to the outer "wall" of the aft locker packed out to ensure a straight pull and thence thru another on the deck of the well before going to a jam cleat at the aft end of the cockpit
I originally used Sikaflex 291 but have, this winter, made new ones of the mastic used by Tony Irwin for his anchor chain bungs (Marine Sealant 033 by Trade Sealants of Waterlooville, Hampshire, England Tel 02392 251321) This come as two large lumps of black and white mastic. You take some of each and kneed together until all trace of the white has gone. It remains more flexible than the Sikaflex. I have also at the suggestion of Jeremy Lines slightly radiused outer lip of the drain hole to give a better bearing surface. I have not yet had Khamis in the water but after half filling the cockpit with water nothing came out aft so live in hopes this may be the ultimate solution. I hope to post some pics soon

[Andy Moore]

What is SikaFlex. I have heard it mentioned a few times. What is it good for?

[Andy Moore]

Two years ago I gave up trying to fix my original drain stops.
I have made conical bungs which allow me to run hard under power for an hour or so before slowing for a moment to drain the water that has seeped in.
To make the bung b..................e also at the suggestion of Jeremy Lines slightly radiused outer lip of the drain hole to give a better bearing surface. I have not yet had Khamis in the water but after half filling the cockpit with water nothing came out aft so live in hopes this may be the ultimate solution.

"I am attaching two pics relating to this that I took today to be added please.

One is in a vice after removal of the plastic funnel in which it was made and the other looking aft at the port corner of the cockpit deck showing the “lead” for the cord."

--Peter