Heating

[Tony Irwin]

We have a Webasto heater in the space abaft the quarterberth on Good Nick, with a single outlet at the front of the berth. Can anyone advise how to get a 60mm air pipe to the forepeak or the heads compartment causing the least possible damage? It would be possible to run it under the sole by flattening it a bit and it might be possible to run it under the outboard side of the pilot berth, but how to get there?
Help!!?
Tony

[Andy Moore]

Tony,

Is this message (http://www.nicholson31forum.com/showpost.php?p=57&postcount=13) any use?

Here is the entire thread. (http://www.nicholson31forum.com/showthread.php?t=17&highlight=eberspacher)

[Tony Irwin]

Thanks very much, it is very useful; if Blueprint Bill can fit an airpipe there, I am sure we can; it's just a matter of careful measuring!

Tony

[Andy Moore]

Tony,

We are considering getting a Webasto system fitted to provide us with hot water and heating. Can you advise on as to what we need?

If you could keep it simple, it would be appreciated. ;)

[Tony Irwin]

The Webasto we have is a 2000 Airtop that provides hot air only. It has a graduated system, so that once the thermostat in the saloon reaches temperature, the heater reduces output by fine gradations, so it is not a matter of being fully on or on 'half blow' or off, but a steady reduction [or increase], so the electrical draw is small, the noise is not intrusive and the fuel use is very small. My hot water is from a calorifier fed by the waste heat from the freshwater cooling system. Is that what you are considering or is it a combined hot water and radiator system you are contemplating?
Tony

[Andy Moore]

The Webasto we have is a 2000 Airtop that provides hot air only. It has a graduated system, so that once the thermostat in the saloon reaches temperature, the heater reduces output by fine gradations, so it is not a matter of being fully on or on 'half blow' or off, but a steady reduction [or increase], so the electrical draw is small, the noise is not intrusive and the fuel use is very small. My hot water is from a calorifier fed by the waste heat from the freshwater cooling system. Is that what you are considering or is it a combined hot water and radiator system you are contemplating?
Tony
To be honest, Tony, we are rather confused by the various options.:confused:

We would like H&C in the galley and heads for washing and the odd shower. We would also like warmth!

With your set-up, do you need to run the engine to heat the water? If so, how long would it remain hot/warm?

Also, can you plug in to shore power to run the air heater and heat the water?

[Tony Irwin]

If you have the 2QM20, you [a] convert it to fresh water cooling by using a heat exchanger and increasing the working temperature of the engine by some 20 degrees, [which makes the engine much happier and protects it against corrosion while the fresh water both cools it effectively and protects against frost by being a 50/50 water/antifreeze mix]. Approximately a day's work and very pleasing. No great skill required. [b] fit a calorifier, which is a tank made usually of copper or stainless steel, insulated, with a pipe coiled inside, with four connections, hot water in and out from the engine, cold water in from the 65 gallon tank and hot water out to the taps in the heads and galley. It also usually has a 240 volt immersion heater to heat water while at a marina [ another half day's work] [c] Fit a water pump, usually in the space beneath the galley, accessed from the trotter box, with coarse filter, charcoal filter and piping, usually grey plastic, with no plumbing skills required plus a mixer tap for galley and a small mixer tap for the heads. [another day's work]. [d] A Diesel heater, approximately 2Kw or a little bigger, installed in one of the quarters, with fuel from the tank or from a junction with the engine fuel line, a flue near the top of the transom, and a hot air pipe of approximately 65 mm diameter to one or more outlets in the saloon.[ Another day's work.] If you do not have shore power you can buy a package, with all electrical bits plus a galvanic isolator to protect your boat against corrosion by other boats in the same marina also on shore power.
Some prefer to combine the diesel heater and the hot water system and have a diesel burner heating the water, which is them pumped around the boat with miature heat exchangers and fans giving out heat where you want it. I think the first is simpler and better; I get hot [too hot not to mix it with cold] water within twenty minutes or less of starting the engine. My calorifier holds four gallons, more than enough for all purposes for a day and the water is still hot next day. I use single lever taps, large in the galley and small with a folding spout for the heads tap. If cruising for longer than a week or two it makes an enormous difference. Our rule for deciding on whether to install this kind of comfort is "Any fool can be uncomfortable!"
I have changed my engine to a Beta 25hp 3 cylinder recently so my old engine exchanger is for sale if you want it. It is a Martec system, basically a long tube with pipes inside for salt and fresh water with an electric pump that is switched on with the engine starter and some piping. It includes full instructions and a higher temperature thermostat. The system works extremely well.
I could fax you a copy of the Martec instructions pls details of the calorifier and taps if you would like.
Tony

[Andy Moore]

Tony,

Many thanks for the detailed post. Most helpful and I think I am getting my head around the topic.

Do you think there is any point in fitting a hot water system only?

[Tony Irwin]

I would only fit the hot water system if the heating coil was fresh water, as the corrosion from salt would destroy it very quickly.
Tony